THE PARKSIDE,

The Parkside Rotisserie & Bar has grabbed one of the best locations in Providence. Across from the courthouse park and at the start of the Water/Fire walk, it's hard to miss. But, praise the gods of culinary delight, there's more going for it than location. Its atmosphere, described on the menu as that of "casual elegance," is now the dominant personality of the Providence restaurant scene, signaling to diners that they will be treated with class but not stuffiness. Along with the obligatory grilled pizzas, there are two regular appetizers with Cajun touches. The crab cakes ($8.95) sound scrumptious, with "Louisiana spices" and a roasted-red-pepper-and-lemon sauce. Their calamari is also imaginative, with the Cajun-seasoned squid rings joined by a cooling corn-and-pepper relish. We tried the "Spicy Chipotle Sirloin" as one of our entrees. This center-cut was served rare, as ordered, atop a crostini graced with dollops of Mascarpone and Gorgonzola. The chipotle peppers (smoked jalapenos) worked nicely in the intense beef stock of the demi-glaze reduction. After our meal, there was no way we could do dessert, all of which is made on the premises -- from pumpkin cheesecake to to chocolate "pate." But, inspired by the sirloin, we'll definitely be back.

Full review.